Lessons from a Failed Backpacking Trip

We planned a big hiking trip this weekend.  Well — not such a big one, just an overnighter into the Amethyst Basin area of the Uintas.  We have packed into the Uintas only twice before, each time in a late July weekend when rain threatened.  We took along tents, rainflys and rain ponchos and never used them at all.  This trip was different.

About 4 miles into the hike, it was looking alot like rain.  We stopped for lunch in a spot which would not have made a good camp site, but we could have set up our tents and waited out a storm if we needed to.  As we cooked and ate our lunch, clouds and thunder moved overhead, and then cleared leaving sunshine.  So, we left our packs in this spot, propped against a tree, and continued up the trail with just one day pack.  While we left our packs and gear, thunderheads moved in again, and this time instead of threatening, we got wet.  It began to rain about 2 miles from our packs, and we didn’t turn around at the first sprinkle because we were trying to reach a lake.

When we did turn around, we had about 2 miles to go to get to our rain ponchos.  We tucked our electronics (cameras and GPS) inside the one day pack and hiked fast.  Even so, we were thoroughly soaked by the time we reached our (also wet) gear.  We decided to hike to a camping spot we had noticed about 2 miles back, and decide there if we would camp or hike the last 3 out to the car.  It rained steadily all the way back to the car.  Instead of setting up camp on the mud so that we could clean our tents when we got home, we put on our ponchos and packs and hiked out.

This seemed like a failure as a backpacking trip, especially since we had carried our heavy packs without camping, and when we got home not a drop of rain had fallen at our house.  Even though this seemed like a failure, I still count it a win because we learned some great lessons.  Positive lessons we learned:

  • We are braver than we used to be!  No one was reduced to tears by the rain, and we were able to pack out of a messy situation.  A little over three years ago, we were caught on a day hike in a similar situation.  Although the hike 3 years ago was colder and scarier (near flash flood,) we were only 1 mile from the car.  The kids and I seriously lost our cool on that not-so-long-ago hike.  This time, we were even able to crack jokes and sing even though we were wet and had hiked much further than we had planned.
  • If there’s a chance of rain — don’t leave your gear uncovered!
  • If there’s a chance of rain — carry your rain ponchos in your day pack!
  • If you have a rain poncho on, hiking in the wet is not bad at all.
  • When changing clothes in the car, everyone can take turns keeping their eyes closed to keep from having to change clothes in the rain or in a stinky outhouse.

So, while it was not the trip we planned, it still turned out to be a successful trip.  I’ll have to share photos of the beautiful river we hiked beside in a future post.

Have you ever been rained out on a hike or camping trip?  Were you able to find any positives?  Please leave me a comment.

4th of July Hiking: Maple Canyon

Near my parents’ home in Sanpete County, there is a canyon famous for excellent rock climbing sites.  The canyon walls are made of a conglomerate rock that I have never seen anywhere else.  Cobble rocks approximately the size of my fist are stuck together with mud to make hoodoos and even an arch.  The last time we visited this area was in the ice and snow.  Mom has been inviting us to hike the loop trail that exits the campground for years, but finally on the fourth of July we were forced by fires in the other areas we wanted to hike to visit this trail.  It was a great little trail.  (There has since been a fire in this canyon — I don’t know exactly what the damage has been.)

Starting from the campground, we took the middle fork and circled back on the right fork trail.  The trail climbs about a half mile, then branches off to visit an arch made from the conglomerate rock.

We continued up the trail about another mile, to where the arrow pointed to the right with a very steep climb to a “viewpoint” and then following the right fork down to the campground again.  The views were fabulous from the top.  We could see the whole valley spread out below us, and the buzzards were circling below us around the cliff tops.  We spent time looking for buzzard (the local name for turkey vultures) nests.  The research I had done said that they nest in caves, and we spotted several likely spots, and even heard the calls of baby birds, but nothing we could identify certainly as a nest.

The area below the viewpoint, as the trail dropped sharply down to the canyon bottom was the best for the kids.  The Forest Service has actually built stairs and installed a ladder to come down this steep incline.  It was beautiful and fun.

Round trip, mileage was about 4 miles for the loop with the arch detour.  At the bottom of the canyon, we were able to stop and watch some of the many climbers that were there taking advantage of their holiday to try out their ropes in the canyon.  Now we have a new goal — let the kids try rappelling.  We’ll have to find some good instructors!

How do you spend the extra holiday time during the summer?  Do you take time to visit trails that are close to home?  Please leave a comment below.

Hiking (and Life) Advice from Annie Dillard

Advice:  (from Pilgrim at Tinker Creek by Annie Dillard)

When I was six or seven years old, growing up in Pittsburgh, I used to take a precious penny of my own and hide it for someone else to find.  It was a curious compulsion; sadly, I’ve never been seized by it since.  For some reason I always “hid” the penny along the same stretch of sidewalk up the street.  I would cradle it at the roots of a sycamore, say, or in a hole left by a chipped-off piece of sidewalk.  Then I would take a piece of chalk, and starting at either end of the block, draw huge arrows leading up to the penny from both directions.  After I learned to write I labeled the arrows:  SURPRISE AHEAD or MONEY THIS WAY.  I was greatly excited, during all this arrow-drawing, at the thought of the first lucky passer-by who would receive in this way, regardless of merit, a free gift from the universe.  But I never lurked about.  I would go straight home and not give the matter another thought, until, some months later, I would be gripped by the impulse to hide another penny.

It is still the first week in January, and I’ve got great plans.  I’ve been thinking about seeing.  There are lots of things to see, unwrapped gifts and free surprises.  The world is fairly studded and strewn with pennies cast broadside from a generous hand.  But — and this is the point — who gets excited by a mere penny?  If you follow one arrow, if you crouch motionless on a bank to watch a tremulous ripple thrill on the water and are rewarded by the sight of a muskrat kit paddling from its den, will you count that sight a chip of copper only, and go your rueful way?  It is dire poverty indeed when a man is so malnourished and fatigued that he won’t stop to pick up a penny.  But if you cultivate a healthy poverty and simplicity, so that finding a penny will literally make your day, then, since the world is in fact planted with pennies, you have with your poverty bought a lifetime of days.  It is that simple.  What you see is what you get.

Application:

Eat every wild raspberry you see.

Hope you find a few pennies today!

Hiking Fifth Water Hot Springs

One of our favorite summer hikes is in a canyon only about a 30 minute drive from home.  Located in Diamond Fork canyon, there are two trails that lead from the Three Forks trailhead.  The less traveled hike is also beautiful, following a tiny creek, Second Water,  along a pretty drainage.  But we like to go early in the morning to beat the traffic on the well traveled trail along Sixth Water Creek, crossing the bridge to Fifth Water, and hiking all the way to the hot springs at about mile 4.5.  If we leave early enough, we can be swimming in creek water warmed by natural hot springs by 9 a.m.

Last Wednesday, we headed out to the hot springs for the first time this summer.  The flow of Sixth Water creek is controlled by a reservoir high in the mountains above the creek, and it was roaring this year.

Unfortunately, right after I took this picture, my camera ran out of battery — someday I’ll remember to check this before I go out.  I want to share some pictures with you from another year, though, because this is a great little hike you might like to do with your kids sometime.  As you can see, someone has built walls around the pools and even piped mixes so that there are pools about mid-thigh deep that you can sit or swim in.

There are little waterfalls to stand under, swim around and slide down.

We play in the lower pools, but the higher pools are warmer for soaking, so if you’ve left the kids at home, try those out.  After you’ve played in the water as long as you like, the hike back to the car takes only about one hour.  This is really a great short hike to take early on a weekday morning so that you can have the little pools all to yourself.

Do you visit a local hot springs or swimming hole?  Do you enjoy swimming in natural waters, or are you a feet soaker like I am?  Please leave me a comment.

Weekday Hiking: Squaw Peak Trail

We are continuing our summer hiking with local trips during the week.  We are lucky enough to live close to many different hiking trails, and are able to find some places that are not closed due to forest fires still.  There are huge fires burning to the south and west of us, but in the mountains just north of us there are still some places we haven’t explored, and others we would like to visit again.  This trail begins at the Rock Canyon Trailhead on the north side of Provo.  We hiked the beginning of this trail about a month ago as part of our “Best Hike Ever.”  We wanted to try again at a cooler time of day and see if we could reach Squaw Peak before it got too hot.

The beginning of the trail is a fairly gentle climb over a wide, well-used trail.  About 2 miles into the hike, a trail leaves to the north (left) with a rock that says Squaw Peak Trail marking the trail.

From here, the trail climbs fairly steeply for two miles to the top of Squaw Peak, where you can see all of Utah County spread out below like a map.  From other trip reports on the Internet, I was not sure how much exposure there would be on this hike, especially on the ridge before the summit.  I promised myself that if I felt that it was dangerous, I would turn around before we saw the end of the trail, especially since Shandy was not with us.  I think the “promise to bail” is an important factor in my bravery.  I state conditions under which I will turn around before I go, and then I am brave enough to start.  Rarely do the conditions come about that I have to turn around, but when they do, I already have my own permission to quit.  However, on this trail there is no exposure before the final summit, and the peak is wide enough that there did not seem to be any danger to sit there and eat our snack and enjoy the view.

Lulu loved looking from this place.  She said it looked like a really, really good map.

As we hiked back down the trail, the butterflies were out in full force.  At the water’s edge, Eden was able to lure several onto her hands, and two even kept her company down the trail a while.

We started from the car at 7:40 a.m., and with time spent snacking and checking things out along the way we were still back to the car before 12:00.  This was a great hike for kids who are strong hikers, and the view from the top was well worth seeing.  If you don’t think your kids could make it all the way, even a short distance along this trail is worth the trip.

Now . . . to find the next spot.  There are so many wild fires in Utah right now, our hiking plans have to be made around what is not burning and has not burnt.  Oh, for some rain! (But not on the days I want to be outdoors, right?)  Hope you are enjoying your week.  Do you sneak out for weekday hikes, or is that something you save only for the weekends?  Please leave me a comment below.

Make This Hike Your Best Ever

After nearly every outing, one of my kids says, “I think this was the best hike ever!”  On one recent short day hike, that was simply because, about 3/4 of a mile up a very hot trail, we found this wonderful drinking fountain.  We had packed water, but the drinking fountain stole the show.

What makes a hike the best ever?  Here are 6 things you can think about to make this hike the best ever.

  • Start at the right time of day.  For our family, early morning is best.  We are all early risers, and sometimes we are even on by the trail by 6:30 or 7:00 a.m.  We love the cool, the sound of the birds, and we really love breakfast on the trail.  For your family, afternoon or evening might be the time when your energy flows.  For us, if we are hiking in the early afternoon, it takes a lot longer to get going and happy on the trail.  So, I try to hike on days when we can go in the morning.
  • Bring plenty of water (or maybe something yummy, like Gatorade.)  It can get hot, and if it is hot enough, even “scary” without water.  Kids should never have to ration water on a hike.  That is a good way to ruin them for a long time about hiking.  Bring enough to bring some home.  We like to pack a bottle of Gatorade to share on a long hike.  It is a good pick-me-up if the going gets tough on the way back to the car.  On one backpacking trip, I even packed some canned ice teas in the top of my backpack to chill in the creek where we were camping.  Everyone enjoyed those teas very much (and I enjoyed getting the 5 pounds out of my pack!) that evening.
  • Plan a special food.  As I said earlier, we like breakfast on the trail.  I have a special coffee cake recipe (coming soon to you!) that I love to make a day or two before the hike, wrap individual slices in foil, and take along with a bottle of cold milk and some fruit to watch the sunrise.  We have some favorite meal recipes, and we almost always slip in a candy bar or some other “junk” to carry us the last few miles.  You could try Pitas and Hummus, Veggie Sandwiches, or Picnic Chicken on your next hike!
  • Take time to enjoy the trail you are on.  Although we like to cover the miles, there is no point in going hiking if your don’t enjoy the view.  Take time to watch the lizards, butterflies and flowers.  Right now, everyone except Max in our family has their own camera.  That slows us down but lets us know what each person is interested in, so that we can stop and enjoy it.
  • Turn around or stop at the right time.  Sometimes you don’t get to the end of the trail — and that’s okay.  Set a time limit or a whine limit, and turn around.  Time enjoyed in the outdoors builds memories that can be repeated and expanded upon.
Here’s hoping you get out on you best ever hike soon!  Do you have any other “essentials” for hiking?  Please leave me a comment below!

Other posts about hiking you might like:

Getting Started

Dreaming about Hiking

Spring Preparations for Hiking

Backpacking Paradise: Coyote Gulch with Kids

On May 11, we headed out for our second backpacking trip ever with the whole family.  It was the first time we had taken the little ones backpacking with us in the desert.  Backpacking in the desert is harder than the places we go in the mountains because you have to carry enough water for everyone.  Although we have backpacked places where there were no reliable sources of water, this trip would take us into a beautiful desert canyon with a creek running through the bottom.  We knew we would be able to find enough water to purify, so everyone got to come along.

Access to Coyote Gulch is on the Hole in the Rock Road outside of Escalante, Utah.  I know I’ve been talking alot about this area, and I have to say again — this is a desert rat’s paradise.  I wish I could live there.  I don’t think I would ever get tired of exploring.  About 33 miles down this washboard dirt road is the Hurricane Wash trailhead.  Again, I am not going to give detailed trip mileage, because it is easily found on other sites.   From the Hurricane Wash trailhead, the first 3 miles is a sandy open trail following the wash, but as water comes into the wash and you near Coyote Gulch, the canyon deepens and is quite pretty.  Once you enter Coyote Gulch, you are in one of the most beautiful places on earth.

The creek has huge meanders which have cut deep alcoves into the rock.  In these alcoves, springs and hanging gardens making a beautiful green contrast to the red sandstone.  There is an abundance of life in this canyon, with birds calling from every side, HUGE lizards, desert toads, tadpoles, fish and plenty of deer tracks (although we didn’t see any deer.)   We also saw a rattlesnake in Hurricane Wash.  This is only the second time we have ever seen a rattlesnake in our hikes.

The main high points usually referenced in the trail guides are Jacob Hamblin Arch, Cliff Arch (also called Jug Handle Arch) and Coyote Natural Bridge.  But every step of this gorge is beautiful with waterfalls cutting through sandstone ledges or water sparkling over sand, springs spraying through hanging gardens to the creek below, and huge cottonwoods making shade over boulders.

We packed into a beautiful spot near Jacob Hamblin Arch.  We had heard that there weren’t many camping spots farther down canyon, but when we dayhiked the rest of the canyon the following day, we found that there were many spots continuing for miles past our camping spot, so don’t feel pressured to pick your spot early.  If you are lucky, you might catch one of the spots on the sand ledges inside an alcove — there are several beautiful ones.  After we made camp the first night, the kids enjoyed water walking while we rested and set up camp.

The second day, we hiked down the creek, making it within half mile of the river.  There was a large climb over a pour off here that we were unable to do because the kids had dropped their shoes a couple of miles up river (they were hiking barefoot in the sand.)  So, we turned around, went back to our camp (round trip about 12 miles) and then hiked another 3 to camp in Hurricane Wash the second night.  This left us with only 5 miles to do Sunday morning, which is a good thing because everyone is tired of hiking by the third day.

Lulu and Max were excited because they had “hiked a marathon.”  We were all happy that we had done this trip.  It was an excellent place for backpacking, and we  can’t wait to go again.

Do you enjoy backpacking with your kids?  What do you think are some keys to making backpacking with little kids successful?  Please leave me a comment!

Hiking Peekaboo and Spooky Gulch

Just a few more pictures of a must visit hike in the Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument.  Peekaboo and Spooky are a very accessible hike for families at the Dry Fork trailhead about 25 miles down the Hole in the Rock road.  After a short climb down slickrock to the wash bottom, you will find Peekaboo slot canyon.  Help each other up the moki steps (steps chipped into the rock such as may have been used by ancient peoples,) then enjoy winding your way through connecting arches of stone.  Try not to giggle and laugh and you climb over, under, around a through tunnels cut through the stone.

It truly is a great place to play Peekaboo!

When Peekaboo narrows up to much to go on, climb east over a sand ridge to Spooky Gulch.  It is a most flat but very narrow slot canyon, at times only about 18 inches wide.  When you have traveled as far as you like, return the way you came, or climb to the top and out the top.  You may retrace your steps to the trailhead (we did, another trip through Peekaboo is fantastic!) or follow the wash to the slickrock climb to the parking lot.

Hope you are having a great day!

Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument: Take the kids to the Devil’s Garden

Devil’s Garden, about 14 miles down the Hole in the Rock Road outside Escalante, is another must visit place if you are passing through.  Not really a hike, more of an adventure/explore, this is like a natural playground for kids of all sizes.  The hoodoos are weathered into separate spires, and are gentle enough to allow climbing on, around, and through arches, tunnels and holes through the rock.

Allow plenty of play time, but unless you are following your kids closely, hang whistles around their necks.  That way, if they get turned around, they will have a way to alert you to their location.

Coming up soon:  Upper and Lower Calf Creek Falls and Peekaboo and Spooky Slot Canyons (for kids.)  Also, how to take time to summer school yourself (for Mom.)  Hope you are planning a great weekend!  Leave me a comment about your plans!

Picnic Chicken for Hiking Fun

Hiking requires real nourishment.  It was a challenge when we first began hiking to find foods that would be appealing after some time — sometimes several hours — spent in a backpack.  They needed to be nourishing, fairly lightweight and hassle free, but also tasty so that our time spent on the trail would be enjoyable.  I happened upon this recipe from Mark Bittman’s cookbook How to Cook Everything, and with some slight modifications it fit the bill exactly.  It has been a regular on our picnic menu for several years now.

Chicken Adobo

Serves 6

5 pounds chicken legs and thighs, skinned

1  cup water

1 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup vinegar

1 Tablespoon chopped garlic

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Combine all ingredients in large stock pot and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes, moving chicken pieces occasionally to insure total immersion in the liquid.  Remove to broiler pan.  Grill on barbeque grill or under broiler about 2 minutes per side, until nicely browned and crispy.  Serve warm or cold.  I freeze the chicken legs and allow them to thaw in our backpacks, making a great, tasty high-protein lunch.

Hope you are enjoying your spring!  Get out there and hike, and then leave me a comment to let me know where you’ve been!  Thanks for stopping by.